Why did I go so long without the fiery delights of Nigerian cooking, wonders Tom
Nearly three decades spent in London, filling my face with all this fine city has to offer. And only a few days back did I first taste suya: grilled slices of meat, lavished with yaji, a vigorous mix of salt, spices and ground peanut crackers. This magnificent dish, native to Northern Nigeria but eaten everywhere, is quite simply one of the most thrilling things to pass my lips since, well, I’m not entirely sure.
There’s so much more to try. This is a country whose food rivals China, India and France for depth, range and technique. I know nothing, save that I am hungry for more
Maybe that first hit of Sichuan pepper, in the dying days of the 80s, at Red Pepper off the Fulham Road. Or, further back, a Berkshire curry house, where chicken tikka masala shocked my virgin palate into raptures. Anyway, on this suitably steamy Peckham night, my Nigerian culinary education began.
It was an article in the excellent Vittles newsletter that inspired me. A piece by Helen Graves, editor of Pit magazine, where she talks of her love of suya. I text Ade, a British Nigerian and old friend, who replies saying he’s happy to give Tiwa ’N’ Tiwa a go. As long as we go on to AsoRock in Dalston for a bowl of red soup.
We park by Lidl and cross the road to a small, clean, utilitarian room where Fulham FC play on the telly and the air is thick with vigorous debate. ‘Sport and politics,’ Ade tells me. ‘Our two favourite subjects. That, and food.’ I take an iced Trophy beer from the bucket at the side, and we order. ‘Make his extra spicy.’
The beef arrives quickly, charred, chewy, slightly fatty and speckled with spice. There’s a bracing chilli blast, followed by whispers of ginger, cumin and garlic, and something else, something mysterious and intoxicating. The initial assault is replaced by a more languorous sort of heat, raw onion and tomato offering cool, crisp relief.
Ade prefers his suya drier, more frazzled. I just want more, but red soup is calling. So we drive north to AsoRock, where we eat chewy fried plantains. Red soup has rich depth and mild sweetness, and a subtle, fruity scotch bonnet tang. With amala on the side, made from cassava flour, grey, with the texture of putty. And a splodge of gloopy okra on top.
There’s so much more to try. This is a country whose food rivals China, India and France for depth, range and technique. I know nothing, save that I am hungry for more.
Tiwa ’N’ Tiwa, about £10 a head, 34A Peckham High Street, London SE15. AsoRock, about £15 a head, 10 Bradbury Street, N16
Drinks: Olly’s picks for your BBQ
From rich whites to robust rosés and spicy reds, when it comes to the barbecue, pick full-throttle bottles that stand up to smoke, salad dressings and marinades. And for the last of the warm weather, stretch out the day by embracing the brilliance of a booze-free option that’s tastier than the plumpest strawberry. Whatever you decide to pour, keep an ice bucket on standby and don’t be afraid to stick wines of all colours in the fridge for 20 minutes. This will keep their flavours focused and fulsome to weave around the bold beauty of your barbecue.
The Best Pecorino 2019 (13%), £6.75, Morrisons. Sharp and bright as lemon carved from a diamond. Great value to match with salads and shellfish on the charcoal.
Elegant Frog Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 (13.5%), £8, Sainsbury’s. My wine of the week. Bold, beautiful and delicious with steaks. Stack your basket.
Pinot Bianco Kurtatsch Kellerei 2019 (13.5%), £14.65, hhandc.co.uk. Pristine and fresh as sunlight on a mountain meadow, this is next-level vino worth splashing out for.
Fortnum’s Rosé Sparkling Tea (0%), £16.95, fortnumandmason.com. A non-alcoholic treat with soaring deliciousness to defy all expectations.
Domaine Gay da En Passant Rouge 2019 (13.5%), £11.99, Majestic. This can handle burgers and beyond; the best BBQ all-rounder. Soft, lush and packed with fruit.