The first time I tried Botox, I was 47. It did not go well. An over-zealous French doctor gave me cat eyes and Groucho Marx eyebrows.
Despite this, I found it tempting to do what I could to slow the effects of ageing. Now I’m approaching 49, I have microdoses every six months. I’m not embarrassed to say that, like many women my age, I love those tiny injections of confidence.
But for us, lockdown presents an extra dilemma: how can you stop those deep lines reappearing?
Friends counting the days until cosmetic clinics reopen have told me they’re delighted to wear a mask when doing the weekly shop, to cover their ever-increasing nose-to-lip folds. Another is getting fed up of her husband telling her to stop scowling, when she’s simply a couple of months overdue for her frown lines top-up.
Lucia Ferrari who is approaching 49, tested a selection of products that could be used an alternative to Botox. Pictured: Medik8 Liquid Peptides
But thanks to technological advances, a raft of new products effectively act as Botox substitutes, evening out lines with muscle-relaxing peptides.
‘There’s still nothing like Botox in terms of efficacy and speed for wrinkle reduction,’ explains aesthetic doctor Sophie Shotter.
‘But there are some topical products that can have the same effect as micro-Botox if applied diligently.’ (Bear in mind, that typically means for at least six weeks.)
Needless to say, they are less invasive than injections, and cheaper too, making them a good option if you’ve been scared to take the plunge.
I put them to the test, with the help of Dr Shotter, to see if they could tide me over in this crisis — or even replace my Botox habit for good…
GLOOPY BUT GREAT
Medik8 Liquid Peptides, £45, medik8.com
How it works: This contains a 30 per cent concentration of peptides to minimise muscle movement. Peptides also stimulate the production of collagen, a protein that makes skin plump. Use it twice a day under your moisturiser.
My Verdict: The serum is oddly gloopy and takes a long time to absorb. After four weeks my skin looked refreshed, but it didn’t address deep forehead wrinkles.
Dr Shotter’s verdict: This uses Argirelox, the most well-known muscle-relaxing peptide. It also contains Matrixyl 3000, which stimulates the production of collagen.
6/10
WORKS IN DAYS
Meder Beauty Science Myo-Fix Concentrate, £157, mederbeauty.com
Lucia said her forehead lines were less visible after four weeks of using Meder Beauty Science Myo-Fix Concentrate (pictured)
How it works: The serum is a blend of three muscle-relaxing peptides and one that plumps up skin. It should be used twice a day for five weeks, then once a day for five weeks, just once a year. Apply it to each wrinkle with a cotton bud.
My Verdict: After four weeks, my forehead lines were less visible.
Dr Shotter’s verdict: This is the most peptide-rich of all these products, with high concentrations of active ingredients.
8/10
SILKY SMOOTHER
Lucia experienced an instant feeling of tightness when using Goldfaden MD Needle-Less Line Smoothing Concentrate (pictured)
Goldfaden MD Needle-Less Line Smoothing Concentrate, £100, spacenk.com
How it works: This uses a peptide and hydrating hyaluronic acid to firm up skin. Apply twice daily under moisturiser for six weeks.
My verdict: It’s lovely and silky in texture. I loved the instant feeling of tightness it created, and my make-up looked flawless on top, too. It definitely softened the appearance of the lines on my forehead.
Dr Shotter’s verdict: The high level of hyaluronic acid is a real plus. It will stimulate collagen production and add moisture.
7/10
GROW A GLOW
Lucia said Bioeffect EGF Serum (pictured) wasn’t able to eradicate deep wrinkles
Bioeffect EGF Serum, £125 for 15ml, and Bioeffect EGF ssence, £79, bioeffect.co.uk
How it works: This duo of products uses a protein called Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), which claims to boost collagen. The brand’s tests showed use increased skin thickness, which can lessen the appearance of wrinkles.
My verdict: After eight weeks, my skin looked smoother and more radiant, but this didn’t eradicate deep wrinkles.
Dr Shotter’s verdict: There is no muscle-relaxing element to this product, but studies have shown that topical application of EGF can increase collagen and elastin levels, so this is good for boosting all-over skin quality.
7/10
BRIGHTENING BOOST
Lucia claims Dr Levy Eye Booster Concentrate (pictured) achieved the same results as Botox
Dr Levy Eye Booster Concentrate, £165, cultbeauty.com
How it works: Stem cell technology and a mix of powerful active ingredients boost collagen and elastin to get rid of fine lines. Use under moisturiser for at least five weeks.
My verdict: Like I’ve had Botox. After four weeks I can’t see my crow’s feet.
Dr Shotter’s verdict: This also contains retinol, which is the only ingredient scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles. Safe for use around the tricky eye area, too.
9/10